Greasing the winder

Terry · Post by **Terry** » Wed Mar 10, 2010 2:27 pm

For some time now I have been thinking about introducing a small hole/drain cock in the top of the keel box about 2" aft of the winder. This should be above the water line and allow me to poke a grease gun down to the screw. Can anyone see any problems with this? I'm just a bit conserned that it may weaken the area around the screw so maybe it would need to be a bit further away. Any thoughts?

mikeprojectboat · Post by **mikeprojectboat** » Wed Mar 10, 2010 7:38 pm

Terry, Have a look back at the old posts, the winding bush should be loose enough for you to put a capfull of oil in to the socket. This should drain down through to the ....bush/thread unit/brass saddle/pivot arms etc without you having to drill holes..!!! If not greased or oiled for a while you will need a couple of capfulls. regards mike

CHERRY PIE · Post by **CHERRY PIE** » Tue Mar 16, 2010 10:16 pm

Hi Terry,
Had thoughts myself about having a bit of copper pipe with a grease nipple on the end bolted on the metal saddle and aimed toward the screw but after all of that I think its simplest just to head for the nearest gently sloping shore and screw the thread out for a generous pasting of grease, 10 minutes every now and then no problem with a bit of oil in the cup like Mike says for good measure, still considering making a boat lift for getting at the keel but time and tide waits for no man. Regards Gary/Ruth/Skip

Terry · Post by **Terry** » Tue Mar 16, 2010 11:43 pm

Hi Gary & Ruth,
When lifting the boat out at the end of last season I was convinced I was going to bust something, in spite of squirting oil down the winder. Taking on board Mikes comment, I drilled a hole anyway and have now fitted a small dingy drain cock. When I unscrew the bung I can see the thread and, by projecting a grease gun down the hole (nipple connector removed), I can squirt grease directly onto the thread. I can’t really see any disadvantages in doing this.
As for the boat lift idea, I have wondered about this myself but the problem, as I see it, is one of cost. I would be interested if you come up with a good idea. In the mean time, I’ve got Seren jacked up on concrete blocks again. I just can’t do a proper job in the keel box or on the keel it’s self unless I do. I’m just about ready to put Seren back in the water but I’ll leave it ‘till early April before I do. It would be nice to have another 'regatta' again this year. All the best.
Terry
PS Actually, I've just remembered that I put back the keel box cover without replacing the winder inspection hatch. I must do that in the morning (could have been a disaster!)

CHERRY PIE wrote:Hi Terry,
Had thoughts myself about having a bit of copper pipe with a grease nipple on the end bolted on the metal saddle and aimed toward the screw but after all of that I think its simplest just to head for the nearest gently sloping shore and screw the thread out for a generous pasting of grease, 10 minutes every now and then no problem with a bit of oil in the cup like Mike says for good measure, still considering making a boat lift for getting at the keel but time and tide waits for no man. Regards Gary/Ruth/Skip

John Hainsworth · Post by **John Hainsworth** » Wed Mar 17, 2010 9:31 pm

Hi Gary & Ruth,

I'm currently renovating an old Swift- Crian Grad, soon to be renamed
Taranaki. I haven't got round to lowering the keel yet but have worked
out that if I leave the boat on the trailer on jacks and wheel out the
wheels and sub frame it should be possible without a crane.Think about
it, it's only a suggestion and I have been known to be wrong. There are
grease aerosol sprays on the market to do a lazy lubrication job..I'm
also experimenting with my own coppercoat, 1kg copper to 750cc resin. It
tended to run on application as it was not really warm enough but now
looks OK. I've yet to see whether it works or not.

Cheers John

CHERRY PIE wrote:

Hi Terry,
Had thoughts myself about having a bit of copper pipe with a grease
nipple on the end bolted on the metal saddle and aimed toward the
screw but after all of that I think its simplest just to head for the
nearest gently sloping shore and screw the thread out for a generous
pasting of grease, 10 minutes every now and then no problem with a bit
of oil in the cup like Mike says for good measure, still considering
making a boat lift for getting at the keel but time and tide waits for
no man. Regards Gary/Ruth/Skip

GARY & RUTH CHERRY PIE

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mikeprojectboat · Post by **mikeprojectboat** » Wed Mar 17, 2010 10:53 pm

John, thought about copper coating the hull myself,but unable to buy powdered copper at a good price, how did you get hold of it? The sample I had was like flour,mixed well with epoxy,but cost a small fortune,so gave up.! REGARDS MIKE IN SUNNY NORFOLK

Terry · Post by **Terry** » Wed Mar 17, 2010 11:55 pm

Hi John,
I find that in order to get the trailer out (with the wheels on) I jack the boat up on two old RSJ's. It takes 8 concrete blocks for the wheels to clear and that allows the keel to be almost fully wound down (enough to antifowl all the keel and inside the box anyway). I've done this for the past 5 years and have just about got things off pat now.

[quote="John Hainsworth"]Hi Gary & Ruth,

I'm currently renovating an old Swift- Crian Grad, soon to be renamed
Taranaki. I haven't got round to lowering the keel yet but have worked
out that if I leave the boat on the trailer on jacks and wheel out the
wheels and sub frame it should be possible without a crane.Think about
it, it's only a suggestion and I have been known to be wrong. There are
grease aerosol sprays on the market to do a lazy lubrication job..I'm
also experimenting with my own coppercoat, 1kg copper to 750cc resin. It
tended to run on application as it was not really warm enough but now
looks OK. I've yet to see whether it works or not.

Cheers John

RobCourt · Post by **RobCourt** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 5:08 pm

Hi John, if you have a look at the Swiftwind photo album you will see some pics of my attempt at chocking up the boat. I invested in some "yacht legs" on the basis that I would be doing this again (and again!). It was pretty easy (I did it single-handed, but took my time and made sure the boat was well supported at all times). I would try to get her up a bit higher next time. As it was I was able to clean and paint the inside of the keel box, antifoul the keel, and check the keel bolts, and mechanism. Good luck. Rob

John Hainsworth wrote:Hi Gary & Ruth,

I'm currently renovating an old Swift- Crian Grad, soon to be renamed
Taranaki. I haven't got round to lowering the keel yet but have worked
out that if I leave the boat on the trailer on jacks and wheel out the
wheels and sub frame it should be possible without a crane.Think about
it, it's only a suggestion and I have been known to be wrong. There are
grease aerosol sprays on the market to do a lazy lubrication job..I'm
also experimenting with my own coppercoat, 1kg copper to 750cc resin. It
tended to run on application as it was not really warm enough but now
looks OK. I've yet to see whether it works or not.

Cheers John

CHERRY PIE wrote:
Hi Terry,
Had thoughts myself about having a bit of copper pipe with a grease
nipple on the end bolted on the metal saddle and aimed toward the
screw but after all of that I think its simplest just to head for the
nearest gently sloping shore and screw the thread out for a generous
pasting of grease, 10 minutes every now and then no problem with a bit
of oil in the cup like Mike says for good measure, still considering
making a boat lift for getting at the keel but time and tide waits for
no man. Regards Gary/Ruth/Skip

GARY & RUTH CHERRY PIE

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John Hainsworth · Post by **John Hainsworth** » Fri Mar 19, 2010 8:38 pm

Hi Mike,

I got my copper from CFS www.cfsnet.co.uk 5kg for£64.62 including VAT
and Postage. I did a 1kg copper to 750cc epoxy mix.

I got my epopxy frombodyfillers@resin-supplies.co.k 3kg for
£48.70ncluding postage and VAT.

Only problem was that the first coat ran and left ripples. I'll sand
them off where they show and let the beach do the rest where I moor it.

Cheers John

mikeprojectboat wrote:

John, thought about copper coating the hull myself,but unable to buy
powdered copper at a good price, how did you get hold of it? The
sample I had was like flour,mixed well with epoxy,but cost a small
fortune,so gave up.! REGARDS MIKE IN SUNNY NORFOLK

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